The Titian Thread
The month in fashion, condensed.
Hi ,
Yesterday, I shared my first Instagram Guide, an underused content format that lets you pull together posts from across the platform in a curated list. Perfect for creating edits of my favourite sustainable fashion brands and retailers, I thought. I started with activewear and will aim to post a different category each Sunday.
Creating the guide stirred up an internal dilemma I have with the idea of promoting brands – even great ones that I support myself. Last year, I wrote about Degrowth for EcoCult and the takeaway was that the only way to fix fashion is by producing and consuming less of it. Plain and simple, yet somehow totally impossible for the fashion industry to concede. So I have to admit that it always feels a bit antithetical to create these edits or plug a cool brand when my inner hardcore activist is yelling at me to "Stop! Encouraging! Consumption!"
Sure, it'd be great if we all woke up tomorrow and decided that no, we don't need anything new, we'll rent or borrow or alter or simply be content with our wardrobe as it is. But if reversing a lifetime of capitalist habits and values was that straightforward, I'd be out of a job and the world would look verrrrry different.
So while we wean ourselves off a constant need for newness and wait for capitalism to die a death, I'd rather share better alternatives than operate under the fantasy that we'll all be willing and able to choose a saintly level of self-restraint when it comes to shopping. What I can promise is that I'll do my homework on the brands that I share, only promoting small, independent and ethical, and always accompany it with a friendly reminder to only buy something if you actually need it.
So this is where I'm at, but I'm very open to changing my mind, although probably not so much that you'll find me flogging Boohoo discount codes on my Instagram stories. I'd love to hear your thoughts – do you think it's irresponsible to promote any kind of consumption given the state of the world? Or do you want to hear more about sustainable brands that could help you shop more consciously?
You can hit me up with the reply button at the bottom of the newsletter.
Until next month,
Meg X
Stories I Wrote
Fast Fashion is a Master Manipulator – Here’s How for Talia Collective
Fashion brands are master manipulators at getting us to spend money. I find consumer psychology really interesting, so I loved researching and writing this story as Talia Collective's guest writer for January. Turns out, brands tap into the subconscious part of our brain by using all sorts of tricks from sensory triggers to tactical furniture choices to convince us that the more we buy, the better off we’ll be.
Stories I didn’t write
Where Are All the Sustainable Menswear Brands? We Investigate by Maggie Zhou for Good On You. I've often wondered about the lack of men working in sustainable fashion (almost every journalist, activist, organiser, designer and eco-entrepreneur I know is a woman) so I found this piece is really interesting.
The Future of Fashion Is Justice by Yessenia Funes for Atmos. New laws in the US could mean big changes for fashion regulation. We're here for it.
10 Ways To Cut Your Wardrobe’s Carbon Footprint In 2022 by Sophie Benson for i-D.
What To Look For In Sustainable Fashion Brands by Maraya Fisher for Coveteur. If you're on TikTok, check out Andrea Cheong, who visits stores and sneakily appraises the quality of a brand's clothing, from the lining and hem to the fabric composition. If you're not on TikTok, check out this interview she did with Coveteur.
It’s Time to End Our Toxic Love Affair with Synthetic Clothing by Katya Moorman for No Kill Magazine. I love how No Kill mag has framed this piece so that whether you're a die-hard activist or simply want to be a more conscious shopper, you can find a relatable reason to avoid synthetic clothing.
The Myth of Sustainable Fashion by Ken Pucker for Harvard Business Review. The ex-Timberland COO says it's time to retire the word sustainable. "Fashion companies should not be allowed to simultaneously profess their commitment to sustainability, while opposing regulatory proposals that deliver the same end."
Meet The Former Big Issue Vendor Who Now Owns A Multi-million Pound Company Fighting Fast Fashion by Liam Geraghty for the Big Issue.
What Fast Fashion Costs The World by Ryan Lenora Brown for Experience. A South African journalist, Brown explores the origins and impact of Africa's secondhand clothing market.
Greenwashing Examples: 8 Notorious Fast Fashion Claims and Campaigns by Solene Rauturier for Good On You. Not sure if you can spot greenwashing? Here are some great examples to sharpen up your scepticism.
The To-Do List
The Wardrobe Crisis podcast is back for 2022 with this deep dive episode into Shein. Lord knows I hate this company, but this is a fascinating insight into this very mysterious and frighteningly successful online retailer. Turns out, there's a reason that Shein is able to stock tens of thousands of products from clothing to homeware and everything in between. Listen below to find out more.
If you're like me and you have a bag of old clothes that you're not sure what to do with, let me introduce you to Bandi! Create a profile that enables you to connect and swap clothes with your "fashion twin". So you can participate in the circular economy, refresh your wardrobe, and make a friend all at once.
I recently discovered Clotheshorse, which is a US-based podcast created by an ex-fashion buyer Amanda Lee McCarty. The episodes are interesting but really long, so if you don't have time, her Instagram account is also great. Amanda recently shared a post on how the decisions she made as a fashion buyer directly impacted garment workers and the environment, which was really eye-opening.
A new cross-industry initiative called Fashion Declares launched today, bringing together the world's biggest fashion companies and thought-leaders like Farfetch, Fashion Revolution, GANNI, Good On You, and many others. The group has five key commitments around social and environmental justice that you can become a signatory to on the website below. I'm excited to see what's next for Fashion Declares!